The best day of the entire trip began with a memorably unique and decidedly untouristy visit to a nomad camp. The women and children had just returned with their donkeys to get some water -- they were hidden behind a large hill, and there's no way we could have found them without Rachid. I was really impressed with their ability to survive in such a hostile environment. They're obviously resourceful!
The grandmother, her daughter-in-law and her grandchildren were dressed very colorfully, which contrasted sharply with their intensely stark environment. They were very friendly, and were eager to show us everything in their camp from the earthen oven to the goatskin water container.
The donkeys were cute to me, but I know they were essential to the nomads -- I honestly don't know how else they'd transport water and supplies over the vast tracks of land. Don't the two donkeys in front look like they're sharing a juicy secret?
We then arrived at Rachid’s family’s house in Rissani to get henna done by his youngest sister. We also met his adorable nieces and nephews, who were very interested in the digital cameras and taking pictures. I was touched by his family's hospitality: even though Daniela and I demurred because we felt bad drinking and eating in front of them during Ramadan, they insisted that we drink the mint tea and sample the honeyed pastries. Everything tasted wonderful.
We then headed to the desert of Erg Chebbi to arrive at a village near huge pink sand dunes. Rachid brought us to his cousin’s place so that we could change into comfortable clothing and drink mint tea in preparation for the trip into the desert, and then he helped us tie our turbans so that we'd not only look the part but also be protected from the sun and sand.
As soon as I hopped on my camel and we started on our slow procession into the desert, I gasped. The sand dunes, which were not only the expected shade of champagne but also a dusky shade of rose, took on an otherworldly beauty with the burnished glow of the setting sun, dramatic shadows cast by nearby ridges and transient beings, and unexpected splashes of green from the desert plants.
When we arrived at our campsite, we were served a delicious tagine of chicken and vegetables. I danced spontaneously to music off of Rachid and Daniela's cell phones, although I had to dance gently because of my full tummy! After dinner, we climbed to the top of a nearby dune, where simple beds had been prepared for us. At about 3am, Daniela gently woke me to point out the breathtaking canvas above us -- there seemed to be more stars than sky! When we got up at 5am to see the sun rise, everything was so still that I almost hesitated to exhale and disturb the perfect serenity.
I honestly can't remember a day filled with more "I have never before..." statements, and I loved it.
For pictures of Morocco, please click here.
